Take a Spin with G-Pa, Part I

We’ve been having so much fun with Grandpa Gary I haven’t had time to blog.  I have taken approximately 300 pictures on my camera since the last time I blogged.

First, a note on my dad.  I’ve always known this but I gave it more thought during his visit:  my dad is one of the most laid-back, genuinely happy people I know.  He finds joy and pleasure in no matter what we do, and what a great way to live that is, because he’s always happy.  I’m sure I took it for granted growing up, but thinking back my dad was seemingly always happy.  It’s a great lesson for me to be like my dad and enjoy every moment we get to live.

After hanging around Chapala for a few days with Grandpa, we took off on a multi-city road trip for a week.  Before that, Carl Car needed prepared.  Since we’ve been scraping on every speed bump, it was time to do something about it.  The mechanic was plenty familiar with that problem.  $70 and four red spacer rings later Carl sat about an inch higher.

First stop: Mazamitla.  We enjoyed the quaint town so much last time we went we decided to show Grandpa.  This time they were celebrating the Virgen of Guadalupe with Catholic masses, parades, carnival rides, and lots of noise.  The impressively loud fireworks at all hours make you feel like you’re in a war zone.  It was rainy off and on for the couple days we were there, almost a blessing as to stop the fireworks for at least a bit.  We had a relaxing two days in the fun little town, despite iola’s nasty head cold.

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-Ryan

Lure Grandpa South

Grandpa Gary decided to ditch the cold and visit us.  He is one of iola’s best friends, so that news was very welcomed.  We picked him up in Guadalajara & we combined the trip to the city with other errands.

First was the International Book Fair Carrie wanted to check out.  We imagined it being a sort of sleepy, casual event.  It was the opposite…long line to get in & a bit on the crowded side despite the gigantic venue.  It was really fun to experience & we got great new Spanish books for iola.

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We once again stayed in a fantastic hotel in Guadalajara, probably the best Mexican hotel we’ve stayed in so far (and still well under $50).

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We visited the midwives again.  Mamá y bebé are both doing well!

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Grandpa’s flight was running late so we had time to explore the city  before heading to the airport.  Carrie had been on a felt fabric hunt and finally found it in a crazy busy fabric store.  Buying our merchandise was an experience like no other.  First we had to find someone to cut the fabric pieces.  At one point after about color number five I told the employee, “and one of every color.”  She looked back at all the different colors with a stunned look until I told her it was a joke.  She gave us a paper ticket (but not our felt) that we had to take to a cash register.  We had to get a different ticket from a different department for the paint Carrie also wanted.  Once everything was paid for, we waited in one long line to show the paid receipt and pick up the fabric.  In another line we waited to pick up the paint.  I have no idea how this method saves money or prevents shoplifting, but I’m thankful it’s unlikely I’ll ever step foot in that store again.  Between the book fair and that store I had my share of crowds for a few months.  I will admit the results of Carrie’s felt quest made it all worth it (see below).

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We ate at the world’s smallest restaurant (unofficial) before going to find Grandpa at the airport.

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Grandpa’s here!  The amount of love between these two never gets old to see.

iola loves her new felt Christmas tree.

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-Ryan

 

Free the Turtles

On the way back up to the hills from the coast, Carrie found yet another activity for us.  Once again at the end of a road where I was cursing the potholes and questioning if this side trip was really worth it, we arrived at the Tortugario, a sea turtle refuge.  And I should stop questioning my wife, as this was yet another really fun stop.  They keep huge sea turtles in pools, bury their eggs in sand, and then release the babies once born.  We were hoping to see the latter part the most but were about to leave without seeing babies when…

They asked if we’d like to release some turtles!  Newborn sea turtles combined with a two year old is a cocktail of adorableness.  iola threw her turtle instead of gently setting it down.  It survived, thankfully, else I’d have lingering guilt over my daughter murdering an endangered animal.

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Leaving the turtles, we drove through Cuyutlán, a small fishing town.  Carrie was hungry so we explored the little town and found a pot of gold.  Lining the Pacific coast were dozens of restaurants with seating right on the beach.  We got a view of surfers while we waited for our food.  Carrie had delicious fish tacos and I ate garlic shrimp with a coco loco drink, straight out of the coconut.  The loco part was not native to the coconut.  This was one of the tastiest, most relaxing meals in my recent memory.  And oddly affordable.

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You might not think too much of the middle, darker cloud unless you were looking for it.  It’s a volcano we passed going back into the mountains toward home.

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These sunsets never get old.

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-Ryan

Head to the Ocean

Gringos have no business being in Mexico for a month without having seen the Mexican coast.  We looked for the quickest driving distance to a beach and went there, which landed us in Manzanillo, on the Pacific coast.  We planned to stay here three nights but as I’m writing this we’ve now extended our stay for two more nights.

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The climate in Manzanillo is surprisingly different than by Chapala up in the mountains at 5,000 feet.  Here it’s 90 degrees and sunny whereas by Chapala it’ll sometimes sneak into the 80’s but usually stays in the 70’s and no air conditioning is needed.

Our hotel on the beach sets us back $43/night including tax & resort fee.  If you’re looking for a five star resort this wouldn’t be your place, but we love it.  Our door is about six steps to the pool and the beach is 10 steps beyond that.  We hear the waves crashing while in bed.

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Hurricane Patricia surprisingly seems to have spared this area.  It had been predicted to cause unprecedented damage.  The only sign we’ve seen of a hurricane is the missing panels of Plexiglas between the pool and the beach.  Our view is better than it would be otherwise so thank you, Patricia.  It seems like yesterday we were avoiding your rains.

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We went to the hotel’s restaurant the first night and were surprised to discover it’s a Spanish restaurant.  Tortilla española & calamares a la romana hit the spot.  Although I’m a one trick pony as a chef, I will say I could show them a trick or two on making Spanish tortilla.  I’ll forgive them since we’re halfway around the world from Spain…and because their beachfront patio is one of the prettiest places I’ve ever eaten a meal.

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Carrie invariably finds weird places for us to go.  Once we’ve arrived I’m thankful for Carrie’s exploratory nature 99% of the time, and I’m glad she’s not the type to just stay on the beach (metaphorically, although in this case literally.)  On the trips to get to these places, however, I’ll admit I’ve cursed the decision to go plenty of times.  Our most recent example is the Iguananario, an “Iguanarium”.  If it looks like there’s someone’s makeshift home right beside the place, it’s because there’s someone’s makeshift home right beside the place.

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A horror movie could be made in this place.  They estimate they have around 500 iguanas, and they’re everywhere.  Above you in trees, beside you, below you.  No fences for these guys.  They also have cute raccoons, pigs, badgers, guinea pigs, roosters, & some other birds.  Quite the funny mix.  Very fun, I must say.

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In case you haven’t heard the rumor, Mexicans love peppers.  I asked the waitress at our lunch stop yesterday if the salsa she brought to the table was spicy.  She said no.  She was a big liar.  Although from her perspective I imagine they were not, in fact, spicy.

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-Ryan

 

Head for the Hills

Carrie is responsible for most cool things we do.  I’d be fine hanging around the area where we’re staying.  It never fails that I’m glad we go with her ideas instead.  This time it was Mazamitla, “The Mexican Alps”.

It was to be a two hour drive, construction turned it into almost three.  This picture shows one of the gentler parts of the construction.  For much of it, if you went an inch out of your lane you’d be down about 10 feet in a trench.  Stacks of rocks with white paint drizzled over them serve as the edge markers.

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After detouring around yet another parade and having the worst bottom-out on a speed bump yet, we found the hotel.  It was a $27/night beauty.  We were given a cozy, no frills interior room (common here; your window looks into a courtyard instead of outside.)  For under $30, we certainly weren’t going to complain.  We went out to see the town and stopped back by Carl, parked front and center outside the hotel, literally three feet from the door.  While I was grabbing the stroller, the attendant spotted me and asked if everything was OK and if we’d like to switch rooms.  I was confused by the question because I hadn’t said a word, much less complained.  But I took the opportunity to ask if they had any exterior balcony rooms available.  With a pleasant smile she showed me the new room options and with no increase in price, I chose one of the coolest hotel rooms I’ve ever seen.  We could have brought at least four of our friends and still had plenty of room to sleep.  There were bunk beds plus stairs that went up to a loft that had a queen bed on one side and a full on the other.  There was a nice balcony, a dining table, a sofa, & a fridge too.  It even came with a bottle opener key chain, which I took as a clear hint to enjoy a Corona on the balcony.

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So that had me feeling like I was a real winner for most of the afternoon and evening.  We watched the finale of the kid’s parade, had a great dinner, & walked around the quaint town.  What a fun little town it is.  The architecture is charming, the small ma & pa stores take you back to a mostly bygone era for the US, and the people are friendly as usual.  The main plaza, 1/2 block from our hotel, was the site of more festivities into the evening.

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And then came the point when we realized why exterior rooms aren’t a great idea, at least not on holidays and weekends.  The sounds are incredible…as in incredibly loud.  Blaring music, loud ATV’s, singing, etc.  I woke up at 4:30 AM thinking, “wow, it’s finally quiet.”  And no sooner did that thought cross my head, the church bells started ringing, as they did the entire night.  Just one of the various sounds would have sent our neighbors of years past lining up at city hall to lodge a complaint.  Here, no one seems to care, or think it’s any of his business, and life goes on.  We laugh and enjoy it for what it is.  iola took to plugging her ears, no joke.

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And this is how we spent a few days, enjoying the sights & sounds of Mexican Revolution Day festivities in a whimsical Mexican town.  Parades.  Lots and lots of parades.

 

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We saw Protect the Squirrels, Protect the Skunks, Protect the Armadillos, & this one is Protect the Raccoon.

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-Ryan

Watch a Parade

Chapala had its Revolution Day parade today.  It was LONG.  And fun.  Somehow iola stayed in there for the whole thing, which took over two hours.  She’d normally be throwing in the towel long before that, so she must have been entertained.

The main theme of the parade is dressing up, mostly kids, in period-appropriate dress for the revolutionary war in the early part of the 20th century.  Heroes like Pancho Villa & Emiliano Zapata are forever remembered and recreated by the huge mustaches they wore.

Very brief history:  The Mexican Revolution started in 1910 and lasted around 10 years.  Prior to 1910 there had been a 35 year presidency that the campesinos (country folk) grew sick of.  They revolted and won, however a subsequent power struggle ensued and many of the revolution’s heroes (including Zapata & Villa) were subsequently assassinated under various circumstances.  Read more at Wikipedia.

A good alternate name for the parade would be line after line of adorable children.  Here’s a slideshow.  Spot the bandoliers (ammo straps) made of peanuts where the kid had gotten hungry and the cowboys bringing things up to the 21st century (holding a bud light and a cell phone):

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Latin America has the stereotype of being machista, that men do manly things and women should do the motherly things.  We haven’t experienced it.  There was way more male participation with the kids in the parade than you’d ever see in the US.  It was about a tie men vs. women helping the kids in the parade. Choreographed dances, hula-hoops, fans, pom-poms, gymnastics & all.  I’ve seen many guys wearing their babies in a baby carrier.  Good for them.  They’ve busted yet another dumb stereotype of mine.

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Appreciate People

We enjoyed a meandering, lakeside Sunday in Chapala today.  Everyone we’ve met since crossing the border has been really, really nice.  If I ask about various menu items at a restaurant, servers will often get the food and show me the difference versus just explaining it.  When we’ve needed help finding something, people are more than happy to help.  Vendors are smiling and wish us a great day whether or not we decided to buy their goods.  When I wave at other drivers, or motion them to go ahead, a wave or nod usually comes right back at me.  Or they’ll motion me to go ahead instead.  People can’t stop staring at iola; they’ll often stop & turn around just to keep watching her with big smiles on their faces.  There’s an obvious emphasis on family here.

It’s common for guys to offer to wash your car if you park along the street.  Today I paid a guy 50 pesos ($3) to wash Carl (our car) while we walked around.  I paid him in advance, so he easily could have kept my money and not washed it, or done a mediocre job.  Instead we returned to a shiny, well-washed car.

Long story short, the people we’ve encountered here are fantastic.  Even as the media’s attention is on terrorism and retaliation for such, I’d like to think that around the entire world, 99% of all people are kind.  They want to eat.  They want their families to eat.  They want to go to sleep at night in a safe place.  They want to provide these things for themselves & others in an honest way.  They want to be around those they love.  Our experience so far has shown us that here in Mexico, anyway, that is true.

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-Ryan

Visit Poncitlán

We’re settled in and relaxed at our temporary home.  It was a very productive first week here.  I even caught wind of a local restaurant that delivers food to our area on Thursdays.  For those of you from the US, it’s like fresher, delicious-er, much cheaper, Schwan’s delivery.  Fruit empanadas, so good they were partially eaten before I could get my camera, and three kinds of personal pizzas.

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When we first arrived at this house last week, as the neighbors were showing us in, iola screamed and begged to go back to “Carl car!!!!” over and over.  That’s changed.  One of her wardrobe choices this week was rain boots, blue undies, a t-shirt, a trench coat, and noooooo pants, so we know she’s settled in too.

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Monday is the official holiday to celebrate the anniversary of the beginning of the Mexican Revolution in 1910.  It wouldn’t be right to only celebrate for one day, so instead it goes on for over a week, and the festivities have already begun!

We visited a town northeast of where we’re staying called Poncitlán.  I should know better than to choose a route that even Google Maps doesn’t give me as one of my options since we’ve already experienced some Google routes that were nearly impossible to drive on.  I chose a road that goes east along Lake Chapala, turning into what amounts to a small path after passing the town of Mezcala, and then we turned north and went through the mountains on a rock switchback road laid by hand.  I was worried for poor Carl car.  We definitely saw authentic Mexico, and we eventually made it without any known damage to Carl, so we were glad we took the scenic route at the end of the day.  As a reference, Lake Chapala is about 12 miles wide (north-south) and 50 miles long (east-west), so in the picture below it’s about 12 miles over to the mountains on the south side.

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We wandered around Poncitlán, not having gone there for anything specific.  We were unknowingly walking around the opposite side of town from where a lot was going on.  We could have easily left town without even knowing what we missed, but fortunately we stumbled upon a huge outdoor market we weren’t expecting. It would be like a flea market in the US, plus candy & food.

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We wandered into a cool church because a mariachi band was playing inside.  We still don’t know why!  They played a few songs, people clapped, and just like that it was over.  iola loved it and requested “más” when they stopped playing.

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We also happened upon a whole train where every car had laundry hanging outside and satellites on top, as well as air conditioners.  As we turned the corner and saw the carnival rides, we connected the dots.  It’s a carnival train!  The workers live in the modified railroad cars and they bring the carnival to town by train.

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Everywhere I’ve been in the world there have been “scenes” where it feels like I could be somewhere other than where I’m at.  There are many times here in Mexico the predominantly Spanish architecture makes me feel like I’m in Spain (which I’ll dedicate a post to soon), however in this moment I felt like I was in Iowa, right down to the Pioneer Seed sign.

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Carrie loves visiting cemeteries.  We’ve been to cemeteries in the US, Spain, Norway, Morocco, Costa Rica, Italy, some more places I’m forgetting, and now Mexico.  Here they are still heavily decorated from Day of the Dead celebrations.  Mexican cemeteries are certainly different from ones we’ve seen elsewhere in the world.  Most graves appear to be shallow with rocky soil piled in mounds on top.  Many have very crude grave markers.  This surely varies with the affluence & geographical location (read: soil type) of the deceased.  If these were in the US I think they’d be deemed as sad, but I can think of many reasons why they could be considered better.  Here’s one reason: instead of the emphasis being on the facade, the materialistic marble & granite representation of who that person was, the focus is on the family remembering who that person actually was.  That remembrance is what Day of the Dead is all about.  Then again some of the graves are indeed elaborate, so maybe my reasoning is wrong.  Sadly, it might just have everything to do with the money that person had at the time of his death.  In either case, everyone pictured was a person, an equally important person on this earth, regardless of the elaborateness off his or her final resting place.

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-Ryan

Smile at Mexican Road Signs

We love Mexican road signs, even if not many of the messages are heeded.

Here’s a collection of road signs with my very, very official translations.

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Note: many, if not most, signs are bent on the end.  It’s common for driver’s to drive on the shoulder to allow faster cars to pass by.  It also happens in no passing zones like on hills or mountain curves.  It appears that big trucks have hit all the signs while driving on the shoulder.

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DRIVE WITH CAUTION.  Yes, that one is bent too.

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No donkey carts or tractors allowed, but pedestrians are good.

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Tractor drivers must wait until they get to this portion of the road.

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A CLEAN ROAD IS SAFER

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KEEP YOUR DISTANCE

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KEEP RIGHT

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PEDESTRIAN CROSSING

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SCHOOL CROSSING

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USE EXTREME PRECAUTIONS WHEN RAINING

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DON’T DRIVE TIRED (But your family isn’t counting on it this time.)

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DIM LIGHTS APPROACHING TRAFFIC (Literally: Concede Changing of Lights)

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NO LITTERING (Literally: Don’t Throw Trash)

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We were cracking up at these “Traveler Services” signs.  They don’t tell you how far ahead they are, only that they’re ahead.  We drove hours before seeing most of the items listed.

Need a coffee or a flight? You’re in luck.

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Keep going and you’ll be able to get gas, see nature, climb nature, wash gas & nature off your hands, then sleep.

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If you’re not in the mood for nature, you can also just wash your hands, eat, then sleep.

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Alternatively, you can see a museum, visit nature, fix some shit, then go into an authentic house.

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Take a tram ride, see an aqueduct (I only know this because we saw it…an hour later), and splash in water.

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Gas and nature seemed to keep their place well in the sign hierarchy, but handiwork, pyramids, and scenic overlooks got an occasional shout out.

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Finally, although not a road sign, a very clever sign on a liquor store business that delivers to your house, or “Service to your home”.  “Vicio” means “vice”, and that portion of “serVICIO” has been emphasized, aka We Deliver Your Vice to Your Doorstep.

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-Ryan